News | June 4, 2025

The Art of Dress in Medieval Manuscripts

Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books

From his pointed shoes to his gilded hat, this knight embodies 1470s high fashion. Évrart de Trémaugon, Le Songe du Vergier. Illuminated by the Master of Gaste andcopied by Pierre de Condreu (or Coudren). France, Saint Chamond, 1469. (Detail)
 

Going on show during Art Basel later this month is Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books' new exhibition Timeless Couture: The Art of Dress in Medieval Manuscripts.

Running in its gallery space June 16–20, Timeless Couture looks at the visual world of medieval manuscripts which served not only as written records but also as windows into an era of elegance and artistic mastery. The exhibited manuscripts offer a glimpse into the culture, values, and craftsmanship of the Middle Ages, revealing how fashion in that time was far more than mere clothing, reflecting power, social structure, and spiritual significance.

At the heart of the exhibition is a collection of illuminated manuscripts showcasing the diversity and artistry of medieval fashion. These depictions offer an understanding of historical high fashion and its meanings - clothing in this era was not only a symbol of status but also a means of expressing power, religious devotion, and social identity. Historical, literary, and religious figures appear throughout, such as an allegorical knight in Evrart de Trémaugon’s Songe du Vergier or a close-up of Mary Magdalen in a Book of Hours.

Mary Magdalen's sumptuous garments serve as a visual reminder of her past as a wealthy woman. Her external splendour contrast and enhance her inner penitence. The G&H Hours. Illuminated by the Master of Spencer 6. France, Bourges, c. 1500-10. (Detail)
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Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books

Mary Magdalen's sumptuous garments serve as a visual reminder of her past as a wealthy woman. Her external splendour contrast and enhance her inner penitence. The G&H Hours. Illuminated by the Master of Spencer 6. France, Bourges, c. 1500-10. (Detail)

Mary Magdalene wears only her golden hair on the left; on the right Dior’s golden-feathered gown brings a modern splendour to the look.
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Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books

Mary Magdalene wears only her golden hair on the left; on the right Dior’s golden-feathered gown brings a modern splendour to the look. Book of Hours, use of Paris. Illuminated by the Master of Jean Rolin. France, Paris, c. 1450-60.

The Spitzer Hours. Illuminated by the Master of the David Scenes in the Grimani Breviary, the Master of the Prayerbooks of around 1500, the Master of Add. 15677 and a hand from the circle of the Master of James IV of Scotland. Flanders,Bruges, c. 1520. Montage with Balenciaga.
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Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books

The Spitzer Hours. Illuminated by the Master of the David Scenes in the Grimani Breviary, the Master of the Prayerbooks of around 1500, the Master of Add. 15677 and a hand from the circle of the Master of James IV of Scotland. Flanders,Bruges, c. 1520. Montage with Balenciaga.

Garden of Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books
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Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books

Garden of Dr. Jörn Günther Rare Books

"Colors represented virtues, and intricate embroidery conveyed holiness or moral values," said Jörn Günther. "Even seemingly straightforward depictions, such as that of the Virgin Mary, reveal a highly codified system of symbolism. Her colours – blue, gold, red, and white – were key indicators to a medieval viewer of her multi-faceted identity as mother, virgin, and Queen of Heaven. These visual codes went far beyond mere style, they communicated the beliefs, values, and position of the wearer within the broader social and spiritual framework of the time."

The exhibition also highlights how medieval fashion continues to resonate in the modern world. Designers such as Dior, Alexander McQueen, Valentino, and Jean Paul Gaultier frequently draw inspiration from medieval manuscripts, blending historical heritage with avant-garde creativity. One of the most striking connections between medieval and modern fashion is the revival of textures and fabric structures depicted in these manuscripts. The voluminous, draped robes of monarchs and the complex textile layers seen in the manuscripts echo in today’s couture collections.